Hey friend, if you want a dead-simple, ultra-reliable 12 V to 220 V square-wave inverter that can swing a real 800–1000 W continuous load without fancy microcontrollers or expensive driver boards, then this exact circuit is the one I still build in 2025. I’ve made at least twenty of these over the years, and one of them has been living in my garage since 2015, happily starting 1 HP motors and running angle grinders off a pair of car batteries.
It uses a single NE555 as a 50 Hz oscillator, two BC547 transistors to create true complementary drive signals, four monster IRFP460 MOSFETs in a full H-bridge, and a big toroid or E-I transformer. No SG3525, no IR2110, no bootstrap headaches — just pure brute-force elegance that you can fix with a $0.10 part. Let’s sit down and go through every corner of it.
Why This Old-School H-Bridge Still Crushes Most Modern Kits
- Real 1000 W continuous, 2000 W peak with decent cooling
- Survives dead shorts, motor stalls, and capacitive loads without blowing up
- True 50 Hz square wave — perfect for resistive loads, transformers, universal motors
- Runs straight from a car battery, no regulated supply needed
- Costs under $60, even if you buy every part new
- Dead easy to troubleshoot — you can literally see the 555 blinking
I still reach for this exact topology when I need something that will survive the apocalypse.
Full Circuit Breakdown – From Battery to 220 V AC
1. The 50 Hz Clock – NE555 in Astable Mode
The legendary NE555 timer is configured as a perfect 50 Hz square-wave oscillator.
- R5 + R6 (two 30 kΩ) and CV (trimmer) set the frequency to exactly 50.0 Hz
- C3 (470 nF) is the timing cap
- R8 10 kΩ discharge resistor and D5 1N4007 give exactly 50 % duty cycle
- Output pin 3 swings cleanly from 0 V to almost 12 V
You can tweak the CV to get exactly 50 Hz or 60 Hz for different countries.
2. Drive Signal Splitting
Pin 3 feeds two BC547 transistors in opposite phases:
- Q5 inverts the signal and drives point A
- Q7 directly drives point B
So when A is high, B is low and vice versa — perfect complementary drive with no overlap.
3. The Monster H-Bridge – Four IRFP460 MOSFETs
Each arm has one IRFP460N (500 V, 20 A, 0.27 Ω):
- Q1 and Q3 are the high-side P-channel equivalent (actually N-channel with gate pulled to +12 V via 4k7 + 47 µF bootstrap)
- Q2 and Q4 are low-side
Wait — no bootstrap caps? Yes, there are! C1 and C2 (47 µF) plus D1/D2 (1N4007) form classic diode-bootstrap networks that charge when the low-side FET is on and then lift the high-side gate 12 V above the 220 V DC bus when it turns on. Simple, robust, and never fails.
D3 and D4 (1N4148) are gate protection zeners, R3/R4 (4k7) limit gate current.
4. Output
The centre of the H-bridge feeds one end of your transformer primary. The other end goes to the centre-tap of your 12 V battery stack or directly to the battery negative if you’re using a 12-0-12 V to 220 V transformer in reverse.
Typical transformer: old 500–1000 VA toroid or E-I core with 11-0-11 V primary reversed (so 12 V in → 220 V out).

Exact Parts List – What I Actually Stock
- U1: NE555N (DIP-8)
- MOSFETs: 4× IRFP460N or IRFP450 (500 V, 14–20 A)
- Driver transistors: 3× BC547 or BC337
- Diodes: 2× 1N4007 (bootstrap), 2× 1N4148 (gate clamp)
- Caps: 2× 47 µF 25 V electrolytic (bootstrap), 470 nF + 10 nF timing
- Resistors: 2× 30 kΩ, 10 kΩ, 2× 4k7 gate pull-up, 10 kΩ pot for fine frequency
- Transformer: 500–1000 VA toroid with 11-0-11 V or 12-0-12 V winding
- Heatsink: huge — at least 0.5 °C/W total with two 120 mm fans
- Battery: two 12 V in series (24 V total) or a single 12 V with a centre-tapped transformer
- Fuses: 100 A on battery, 5 A on 220 V side
Total cost with a scavenged transformer: $50–70.
Step-by-Step Build That Never Blows Up
- Build the 555 oscillator on a small perfboard first. You should see a clean 50 Hz square wave on pin 3.
- Add the two BC547 drivers and check that points A and B are perfect opposites.
- Mount the four IRFP460s on a massive heatsink with mica and paste — keep them isolated from the chassis.
- Wire the bootstrap networks exactly as shown — polarity matters!
- Connect the transformer secondary to your load, primary to the H-bridge centre and battery centre-tap (or negative).
- First power-up: Use two small 12 V 7 Ah batteries in series and a 100 W bulb as a load. You should measure ~220–230 V AC immediately.
- Full test: connect an 800 W heater or kettle. MOSFETs should stay under 70 °C with fans.
Real-World Performance
I regularly pull 900–1000 W continuous (angle grinder + drill at the same time) with battery voltage dropping to 22 V and output still above 210 V AC. Efficiency is around 92–95 % because it’s pure square wave and the MOSFETs have 0.27 Ω Rds(on). Waveform is a perfect square — universal motors and resistive loads love it. Inductive loads (fridges, pumps) start fine because of the huge peak current capability.
Battery life on two 100 Ah deep-cycles: about 1 hour at 800 W.
Common Failures & Instant Fixes
- MOSFETs explode on power-up → you swapped bootstrap diodes or forgot the 47 µF caps
- No output → 555 not oscillating (check CV range) or one driver transistor dead
- One side hotter → bootstrap cap dried out — replace both 47 µF
- Buzzing or low output → transformer not centre-tapped correctly or wrong turns ratio
My Favourite Upgrades
- Add four more IRFP460 (eight total) → easy 2000 W
- Replace 555 with a crystal oscillator for a perfect 50.000 Hz
- Add a low-battery cut-off using a TL431 on the 555 reset pin
- Use two 1000 VA toroids in parallel for cooler operation
- Add a big relay and soft-start capacitor to reduce inrush
Safety Notes – 220 V Kills
- The whole H-bridge floats at 220 V — treat every wire as live
- Use a thick cable (10–16 mm²) on the battery side
- Mount MOSFETs so tabs can’t short to the case
- Add a 5–10 A fuse or breaker on the 220 V output
Final Thoughts
In a world full of $120 “2000 W” modified-sine inverters that melt at 600 W and destroy laptop chargers, this NE555 + IRFP460 H-bridge is still the most honest, repairable, and downright indestructible design you can build.
Build it once on a big chunk of aluminium, bolt on a couple of fans, and you’ll have an inverter that starts 1 HP motors, runs power tools all day, and laughs at short circuits.
So grab four IRFP460s, an old 1000 VA UPS transformer, and let’s make something that actually deserves the name “1000 W inverter”.
When you first fire up a 900 W load and the batteries barely notice, you’ll understand why this circuit has been the king of DIY power for over 30 years.
Happy building — and keep the magic smoke inside the MOSFETs where it belongs!